The moment of the metrosexual is finally over. With the global meltdown and the pall of gloom in a recession-prone, terror-ridden world, this is just not the time to dress dandy or indulge in some overtly sartorial elegance. Designs on the runway have always been an indication of the changing times, and if the collections of Dolce and Gabbana or Louis Vuitton, or even iconic designers like Alexander McQueen are anything to go by, now is not the time to sport the suave pink shirt or the almost pretty cashmere sweater that is a gross misfit with the credit crunch at hand. What designers are hinting at, though, is a return to the look of the Seventies — comfortable, solid and quite like homespun.

It’s a time when trench coats and bomber jackets are back in fashion, particularly because they are so handy and utilitarian, says designer Sidharth Tytler. “Conservative colours are in — like greys and blacks, browns and moss green, which can be teamed with contrasting bottoms for a coordinated but toned-down look,” he says.

Knits are coming back in a big way, with cable stitches and patchworks making regular appearances, and cardigans that can be worn as jackets. While Burberry and Fendi made use of feathers and fur lining, in India, designers like Hemant Sagar have gone in for tweeds, corduroy and leather. “We have extensively used the Scottish checks — both in blue and red, and black and white — and teamed it with short leather jackets without collars, low-waist pants with drainpipe fit. Everything is made to contour-fit,” says Sagar.

The emphasis is obviously on a leaner, tougher and, by extension, a more ‘masculine’ look.

The designs are mostly geometric patterns — at the most, there will be tonal embroidery or interplay of blocks of colours. Designer Varun Bahl, for instance, has gone in for contour detail on his menswear, playing up the silhouettes with pleats and pin-tucks and incorporating hints of tonal embroidery on some. “Of course, the mood is all about a solid, well-defined look, but I’d advise against complete slim-fits. Make sure the clothes fit your shoulders and your back and then drape well. It should fall easy across the chest,” says Delhi-based menswear designer Rajvi Mohan, who advises a more layered look with lightweight sweaters in shades of burgundy or brown, teamed with suitably accented denims or trousers.